Pyroglutamic acid (also known as 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid) is the principle ingredient of the "natural moisturising factor" that enables the stratum corneum of the skin to maintain a high water content despite low external humidity. Pyroglutamic acid applied topically to the skin has a temporary moisturising effect, but it is easily washed away and gives no long term skin benefit.
The use of certain esters of pyroglutamic acid as auxiliary agents for accelerating absorption of drugs through the skin is described in JA 60-214744 (Nitto Denki Kogyo KK.
Cosmetics containing one or more compounds obtained by the esterification of 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid (PCA) and a fatty acid chosen from straight chain higher fatty acids are described in JA 57-185209 (Nisshin Seiyu KK) for contributing to the natural moisturising factor (NMF) present in the horny layer of the skin, part of which NMF is characterised as a salt of PCA.
Certain esters of pyroglutamic acid described in FP-A-0 176 217 (Unilever) are stated to be analogues of naturally occuring N-terminal pyroglutamic peptides. These naturally occurring peptides are substrates for the enzyme pyroglutamic acid peptidase which represent one route of pyroglutamic acid synthesis in the stratum corneum: [See: J G Barrett and I R Scott (1983), "Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid synthesis in guinea pig epidermis", J Invest. Dermatol. 81, 122].
These esters are stated to readily penetrate into the stratum corneum, and there provide a substrate for this enzyme at the normal site of pyroglutamic acid synthesis, that is, inside the cells of the stratum corneum.
There are, however, certain disadvantages in employing products based on these prior proposals; these are firstly, in aqueous systems, there is a tendency for hydrolysis of the ester of pyroglutamic acid to occur prematurely, so that the free acid, pyroglutamic acid, is present in the composition, and its benefit prior to application to the skin is thereby at best relatively short lived, and secondly, that the presence of drugs in topical products can severely limit their cosmetic usefulness.
We have now discovered that the stability of esters of pyroglutamic acid can be significantly improved and the general cosmetic use widened, by formulating them in an aqueous composition having an acid pH, preferably one which otherwise contains no molecule that could be classed as a drug, thereby limiting its cosmetic usefulness. Also, we have found that the ester of pyroglutamic acid penetrates more readily into the stratum corneum than does the free acid, the penetrated ester being enzymically cleaved, as already stated, to yield pyroglutamic acid in situ in the stratum corneum, thereby to auqment that which occurs naturally in this region of the skin. Evidence to support this observation is given later in this specification.